Hornby - Power Connect Clip

Product Information

In fact, Tri-ang used to reccommend that, if interference was caused by a layout, extra power clips were fitted (with no wiring). This put more capacitors across the power feed.... Note also the Yellow Dots in my schematic. These represent Hornby R920 Insulated Rail Joiners. Do not omit to fit these at the locations shown. They are required to give electrical separation between the different sections of the layout controlled by the different controllers. Similarly, the 'Bypass' loops in the main ovals will only have power when the points are switched into a particular path (route). Thus, trains can be parked stationary in those 'Bypass' loops when the adjacent points are set away from that path (route).

When designing power distribution of DC Analogue....... I am assuming Analogue because firstly, your post is not in the DCC forum and secondly you used the term Controller s as in plural i.e more than one. This connector does require the wires [if using bare wires] to be fixed in the holes with some form of peg arrangement as WTD describes. These pegs would normally be the manufactured terminals that are included on the end of current Hornby controller attachement wires. This the very first time I have ever seen this question raised on the forum, so either others have not seen this issue or they have resolved the issue themselves without seeking advice. I'm just wondering if you are trying to insert the wire terminal into the wrong place on the connector, hence my request for a photo.

I have modified a R.487 to use with DCC, by carefully removing the clip base, which is held on with three small eyelets (rivets).

Instead of a fixing peg [made of your own design and implementation] you can use the X8011 terminals I mentioned earlier. For clarity, I have used three colours to denote the three separate controllers and associated power distribution. Turquoise for Controller 1 for the outer loop and upper sidings. Red for Controller 2 and the inner loop including the lower platforms. Blue for Controller 3 for the central sidings and TT area. Motor capacitors have to be fitted by all manufacturers to comply with current Radio Frequency (RF) interference legislation set by the EU and any country they export to. If you decide to remove them is up to you! You wont get arrested for snipping any out. But if you're a manufacturer you have to fit them by law!You really do need to tell us more about your controller so that we can give a more targetted reply. Thirdly, although they can be used 'straight out of the box' as is. To get the maximum benefit of Electrofrog points then I recommend implementing the full 'switched frog' modification. It is an easy mod for most, but modellers who struggle to understand the wiring of a plug, may struggle with this mod. And based upon some of the electrical questions I see and respond to on this forum there are many on here that I consider fall into that category. Having looked at the plan on your link, the best places (if you are using Hornby power clips rather than soldering your own wires) to supply power are on the far right hand side of both ovals - where the plan suggests a double level crossing (I think). This is assuming you have two power controllers, one for each oval. So you would have to do without the level crossing, and just use plain single straights + power clips.

So, am I safe to run the locos as normal, or was it a mistake to get the DCC power clips? I find it hard to believe a connector is doing this! I've read a little about DCC power and how it might fool a multimeter - is that all it is? When a power source is unregulated. It is quite normal for a voltage to read at a higher level when the output of the power source is not connected to a load. With an unregulated power source, you need a load attached to read a more accurate value. The load would normally need to be at about half the maximum output capability. With modern tv (satellite or cable, and uhf) the capacitors are really a waste of space, but as they are about 10 for a penny, they are still installed on a just-in-case basis.Your description of the controller is a bit vague. Three step controller? If this is a Hornby product can you advise what the product R number is. If not a Hornby controller then what brand and model?